Ireland: Glendalough in the Off Season

by Jack Davis, Travel Consultant

Beauty has never been so stark as it is in Glendalough, Ireland in March. It is raw and exquisite. The best part is that you have the entire place—part of Wicklow Mountains National Park—practically to yourself.

My wife Libby and I traveled to Glendalough from Dublin by bus; a wonderful way to spend the 2.5 hours each way, allowing us to read up on the history and gaze our the windows at the rolling green hills and small farms. We arrived around noon and settled into the Glendalough Hotel before heading out to the hills. Our goal was the Spinc and Wicklow Way trail, considered the most difficult (11km, 4 hours) and with the best views.

We were told that Glendalough is a very busy place in the summer, which was hard to believe since it was so quiet in March. The temperature was in the 50s and the weather constantly shifted between drizzle and sun. Every break in the clouds produced a brilliant rainbow.

We were warned that the weather was mercurial and we were prepared. This included wick-away pants and shirts, a fleece, hiking boots, and rain pants and jacket as well as a warm hat and gloves.

The higher we ascended, the stronger the winds. Sometimes so strong we could barely stand. But it was worth every step. The trails through woods broke into sweeping fields over hilltops with views of deep valleys. Some trails were roads, other rutted paths, and others wooden platforms. The sky was alive, changing every 15 minutes from sun to rain and back again. Clouds raced.

Over the entire afternoon, we only encountered about a half dozen people. The mountain tops were literally ours alone.

We arrive back just before dinner, and we were famished. We changed and raced to the tavern where we enjoyed falafel salad, pizza, and fish and chips. And beer, of course. There is nothing better than a good meal after an afternoon of exercise.

Of note, Ireland is fantastic at listing allergens in all foods. I grew up on traditional Irish fare, which I confess I never really loved, but Ireland’s menus are varied and well-marked depending on your diet.

There were only a few others in the tavern, including one younger woman we had passed on the hike. In making small talk we asked what she did. “Oh, I’m in a TV series call Vikings. I like to come here to get away and give me a taste of what it was really like back then.”

We respected her privacy and didn’t ask her name or pry. We nodded and agreed. If you want to feel the land and country of Ireland, and I mean to your core, I can’t imagine any better way than experiencing Glendalough in the off season.

Note: Glendalough has trails for all levels. Click here for all Glendalough hikes, from easy strolls to challenging hikes.

Glendalough, Ireland